Laboe, Germany – Gotland, Sweden

On the morning of August 2, we decided to skip the Copenhagen marina recce, Anna’s chosen winter pad and instead head straight to Gotland. We took a fairly direct route from Laboe to Herrvik Marina on the east side of Gotland trying to stay out of the way of the high speed ferries that crisscross the southern Baltic sea. Winds were generally light to moderate W–SW breezes (10–16 kt), with mostly sunny skies, occasional clouds, and a few brief showers. The sea was calm to slight (0.5–1.5 m), with gentle W–SW swells and minimal currents, making for a comfortable and steady cruise, averaging more than 7 knots over the 50 hour passage.

As Martin’s watch drew to a close in the quiet hours between 4.00 am and 8.00 am in the morning, he noticed MY Luna appeared on the chart. To our surprise, they were making their way back south in the opposite direction of Anna. We had imagined crossing paths with them further north in the Baltic Sea, perhaps sharing a harbor or a story or two along the way. But the sea has its own plans—c’est la vie, maybe our courses will align another time.

The passage from Laboe to Gotland offered stunning Baltic vistas, scattered islands, and open-water panoramas, with striking sunrises and sunsets. Approaching Gotland, the Herrvik township came into view, nestled along a sheltered bay fringed by a forested coastline, offering a safe and picturesque harbor for our stay. It is a small township with only a handful of permanent residents but quite a few holiday homes that are used over the summer. And of course all the houses were painted in the traditional dark red, clearly indicating that we had arrived in Sweden.

Upon arrival at Herrvik Marina, we were warmly greeted by Mats the marina keeper, who personally assisted with docking Anna and later shared visitor information, highlighting things to do and places to explore. He even offered to bring some fresh local fish if we were interested—a very thoughtful touch.

Herrvik Marina is a quaint, small marina with only a few private yachts. It is a picturesque and well-protected working fishing harbor on Gotland’s eastern coast, southwest of Östergarnsholm. The marina has clean shower facilities with hot water and there is electricity at the dock. No water connection is provided, it seems like Gotland has a water shortage so this is understandable. There is a 50 ton sled for haul out and a dry dock where boat work can be performed. Some bicycles are available for visitors to use, a really nice touch.

If you are visiting Herrvik, don’t miss the engine museum and the SMS Albatross museum, a German minelaying cruiser built for the Kaiserliche Marine. The ship was badly damaged in 1915 by a Russian armored cruiser in World War I and forced to beach off the island of Gotland in neutral Sweden.The museums are free to visit, run by volunteers and lovingly put together. For any motorhead the engine museum is a real treat, there are some massive old steam engines in there, in fact the museum was built around one engine that had been moved there first.

For exploration, the surrounding area offers nature trails and scenic walks to attractions such as Grogarnsberget, Katthammarsvik, Kuppen, Sysne, and Sandviken, all celebrated for their tranquility and natural beauty.

Local dining options include Hamnkrogen, serving fresh seafood in a cozy setting, and Herrviks Brygga, offering salmon sandwiches, waffles, pies, and ice cream with lovely harbor views. For water enthusiasts, Herrvik also hosts a self-service kayak and SUP rental station, perfect for exploring Östergarnslandet or Östergarnsholm by paddle.

Overall, Herrvik Marina offers a peaceful, scenic, and well-equipped stopover, blending natural beauty, excellent facilities, and warm local hospitality—a perfect harbor to rest and explore Gotland’s eastern coast.

We were fortunate to be in Gotland just in time for Medieval Week. The Medieval Week (Medeltidsveckan) in Visby, Gotland, runs from August 3–10, 2025. During this festival, the UNESCO World Heritage town of Visby comes alive with historical reenactments, jousting tournaments, medieval markets, performances, and craft workshops. Attracting over 100,000 visitors annually, the event provides an immersive medieval experience amid Visby’s historic walls, cobbled streets, and charming architecture, making it an unforgettable visit. Everyone seems to get into the spirit and is dressed up in medieval cloth, tents are set up and there is lots of drinking going on. Followed by a skinny dip in the chilly Baltic waters. They are crazy, these Swedes..

Visby is the medieval jewel of Gotland, Sweden, renowned for its well-preserved town walls, towers, and cobbled streets. The town’s layout, dating back to the 12th–14th centuries, is a charming blend of historic architecture, narrow alleys, and colorful merchant houses.

Visby’s harbor area serves as a gateway for yachts and ferries, lined with cafés, restaurants, and shops. Inside the town, visitors can explore ancient churches, museums, and local markets, all reflecting the town’s rich Hanseatic trading history.

A highlight is the UNESCO-listed city wall, nearly 3.5 km long, dotted with 44 towers, which encircles much of the old town and offers scenic walks. The cobbled streets and charming squares—like Stora Torget—invite leisurely exploration, while boutique shops and cozy cafés provide modern comforts alongside the historic ambiance.

On our last evening in Gotland, we couldn’t miss the highly recommended Katthammarsviks Rökeri AB, Gotland’s oldest fish smokehouse. Nestled in the picturesque harbor village of Katthammarsvik on the island’s eastern coast, the smokehouse has been operating since the 1940s, preserving traditional methods and offering a genuine taste of Swedish seafood culture.

The menu featured a variety of smoked fish dishes, including fish platters, smoked shrimp, and the house specialty – Rökeriets fisksoppa (smoked fish soup). Guests can dine on the outdoor terrace, enjoying views over the tranquil bay. Adding to the charm, a local three-piece band was scheduled to perform—but amusingly, they only played one song before happily settling in to enjoy their own fish for the rest of the evening!

Yet another beautiful evening, we rode our foldies back to Anna and settled on the aft deck, soaking in the tranquil sunset over the water and savoring the calm, peaceful atmosphere – a perfect close to our last evening in Gotland.