We slipped our lines at Malmö Gasthamn around 9:30 am on Sep 17, ready for the short but challenging crossing to Denmark. Once underway, the Øresund Strait quickly showed its character. Strong winds swept across the narrow waterway, raising whitecaps and churning the sea into a moderate to rough state. Waves rolled steadily toward Helsingør, causing the yacht to pitch and roll, while spray occasionally broke over the bow. Progress demanded concentration and coordinated effort, making Ronny’s presence on board invaluable, as he lent a helping hand with the watch and kept a sharp eye on the shifting seas.
The weather remained overcast and blustery, though visibility stayed good enough to pick out passing ferries and the Scandinavian coastline. Despite the demanding conditions, the crew settled into a rhythm, navigating the busy strait with focus and teamwork.
After crossing the Øresund from Malmö, we approached Helsingør Marina under strong winds and moderate to rough seas with whitecaps. The entrance, protected by breakwaters, required careful navigation due to busy ferry traffic. Using channel buoys and keeping a close watch on depth, we eased into the sheltered guest mooring area. With Ronny assisting, docking went smoothly. By 3:30 pm, we entered Helsingør Marina, tired but satisfied. The dramatic waters of the Øresund left us with a memorable sense of achievement as we tied up safely in the marina.
Helsingør Marina (📍56.0363° N, 12.6136° E) is a well-protected harbor on Denmark’s eastern coast at the Øresund Strait. Sheltered by breakwaters, it offers floating pontoons, power and water connections, showers, and Wi-Fi. Approaching from the southwest requires attention to ferry traffic and occasional wind gusts, but the calm inner basin allows easy docking.
The marina is conveniently located near Helsingør town, with its historic streets, cafes, and shops, and within walking distance of Kronborg Castle, the UNESCO-listed site made famous by Shakespeare’s Hamlet. From the waterfront, there are scenic views across the Øresund to Helsingborg, Sweden.
Despite our limited time in Helsingør, Ronny, Martin, and Ivy managed to slip away from the marina for a brief but memorable exploration of the town. The historic streets immediately revealed their charm, with cobbled lanes lined by colorful 17th- and 18th-century buildings, quaint cafes, and boutique shops.
Our first stop was Kronborg Castle, the iconic Renaissance fortress. Standing atop the castle ramparts, we admired the sweeping views across the Øresund Strait toward Sweden, watching ferries glide between the two countries. The castle’s stately halls, ornate ceilings, and historic armory gave a tangible sense of Denmark’s maritime and royal history.
Wandering through the town, we passed St. Olaf’s Church, a striking Gothic structure with its tall spire visible from much of the harbor. Narrow alleyways revealed small squares and local markets, where the scent of fresh pastries and coffee drifted through the air. Even in our short walk, Helsingør’s blend of history, culture, and maritime atmosphere left a strong impression, giving us a perfect taste of the town before we returned to Anna to prepare for our next leg of the journey.
Helsingor – Gilleleje, Denmark
We departed Helsingør in the morning, planning to head into Isefjord with our first anchorage somewhere near Rørvig. The 35 NM leg started under overcast skies with cool autumn conditions (13–15°C) and generally good but occasionally hazy visibility, with showers possible later in the day.
Fresh easterly to east-northeasterly winds of 17–20 knots, gusting higher, produced a building sea state in the exposed waters off the north coast of Zealand. Conditions outside sheltered areas were moderate to rough, with short, steep wind waves of approximately 1–2 metres, making for an uncomfortable and wet passage.
On westward progress toward Isefjord, Anna encountered persistent headwind and cross-sea conditions, resulting in heavy pitching and substantially reduced speed of 4 to 5 knots. Given the sustained uncomfortable motion and deteriorating comfort on the exposed stretch, the decision was made to abandon the passage and head into the safe harbour of Giileleje that we had passed half an hour earlier.
By 1:30 pm, after roughly 3 hours and 40 minutes of cruising, we arrived at Gilleleje Marina, a safe and calm harbor offering respite from the open waters.
Gilleleje Marina (📍56.0156° N, 12.3361° E) is a small, well-protected harbor at the northern tip of Zealand, Denmark. Sheltered by breakwaters, it offers floating pontoons, water and electricity connections, showers, and a small shop. The approach is straightforward, with clear channel markers, and the calm inner basin allows easy docking, especially with extra hands on deck.
Gilleleje is a quaint fishing town with a relaxed, maritime charm. The harbor-front is lined with colorful buildings, traditional fishing boats, and local cafes, giving a cozy and welcoming feel. Walking along the promenade, you can watch fishermen at work, enjoy fresh seafood, or simply take in the scenic views. The town retains a sense of historic character while remaining lively and inviting to visitors.
Typical of Ronny, he arrived prepared to make a grand occasion out of any gathering. This time, he brought along an impressive 2.5 kilograms of shrimp, so we had the pleasure to enjoy our own version of a traditional SwedishKräftskiva, the beloved late-summer crayfish party celebrated throughout Sweden and, through cultural ties, also embraced in Finland’s Swedish-speaking communities and parts of Norway. Known for its festive atmosphere, communal dining, and generous flow of drinks, the tradition proved to be the perfect inspiration for an unforgettable evening aboard Anna.
No sooner had we arrived in Gilleleje Ronny disembarked and sprang into action. Without hesitation, he disappeared ashore and returned shortly afterwards carrying a full case of 30 bottles of Harbor beer, clearly determined that the celebration would be done in Scandinavian style. His arrival instantly transformed the mood on board. With his trademark enthusiasm, boundless energy, and knack for bringing people together, Ronny elevated what might have been an ordinary evening into a lively and memorable gathering.
As the shrimp were shared, the beers opened, and stories and laughter flowed freely, the atmosphere became increasingly festive. Ronny’s infectious spirit set the tone for the night, encouraging everyone to relax, participate, and enjoy the moment. What began as a simple meal quickly evolved into a true Nordic-style celebration, filled with camaraderie, good humor, and lasting memories. By the end of the evening, it was clear that Ronny had once again succeeded in turning a casual gathering into a remarkable occasion that brought the entire crew together and took the fun to another level.