On August 14, 2025, weather reports for the Gulf of Finland indicated fog and mist and there was a storm developing in the Gulf of Bothnia that was moving in a southeasterly direction., Therefore, instead of heading to Helsinki, David decided that it will be better to head northeast to the Ekenäs archipelago and then get in time to the safe harbour of Åland the next day. This would allow us to bypass the weather system.Temperatures were typical for mid-August, ranging from 12–14 °C, with sea surface temperatures between 18–20 °C across the Gulf of Finland and the Archipelago Sea. The sea state was calm to moderate, with wave heights below 1–1.5 m, making for a pleasant few hours of cruising.
However, the mood shifted when we noticed that one of the fender balls was missing. Martin and Ivy exchanged puzzled looks, unable to explain its disappearance, though we suspected it had been dragged off the railing as we left Port Noblessner. It was a costly oversight on our part for not conducting a thorough check of all fenders and lines before departure.
We managed the short 50 NM hop in good time cruising at just under 7 knots across the Gulf. Having researched the anchorages in the archipelago we settled on Byxholmen, a small island with a sauna in the Ekenäs archipelago national park.
Byxholmen and Lilla Byxholmen form a serene recreation area, separated by a narrow, shallow strait and easily accessible through nearby waterways. The island lies about 7 km from Sommaröstrand, which offers year-round services, and 5 km from the Rödjan wilderness. Mooring buoys are located on the northern side, between Byxholmen and Lilla Byxholmen. All visitor facilities are on the main island, including campfire sites, dry toilets, a firewood shelter, a well, and a self-service sauna available throughout the year. We found a perfect anchoring spot on the southern side in about 10m of water not far from shore and with good dinghy access areas.
Martin and Ivy took time to explore the island and were impressed by how well-equipped it was for such a small, remote place. It is a real pleasure to take the 2 km walk around the island, it is densely forested on a thick layer of moss that seems like a carpet at times. You will find a fireplace at regular intervals with small picnic areas. There were quite a few boats moored and anchored on the northern side of the island and the cute little sauna was in operation. A couple was using it when we arrived and unfortunately it was booked for the rest of the evening. The way this works is you put your name in a book that’s located in a letterbox and you get the sauna one hour to yourself. The first person in the morning stokes it an hour before their time and you replenish the firewood for the next party using the sauna after you are done. A simple, well working system – we were impressed. We booked ourselves in for the next morning keeping our fingers crossed that we’d be able to properly light it up.
However, upon returning to Anna around dusk, they were greeted by an army of mosquitoes and other flying insects, making it nearly impossible to stay comfortable on board. Furthermore the storm system had progressed faster than we anticipated fuelling concerns that we may be caught in it. After a brief discussion, we agreed to set sail for the next destination, determined to escape before being completely devoured by the relentless swarm of mosquitos that must have considered Anna a blood donation vessel. The sauna had to wait.
The decision to leave was made swiftly, and after a quick check of the weather, the timing proved ideal to lift anchor and depart Byxholmen. The plan was to ensure we reached our next destination, Åland Island, while there was still daylight the next day.
During the overnight passage from Byxholmen to Åland on August 14, the voyage began in foggy, misty conditions with reduced visibility, later giving way to cloudy skies and occasional light rain showers. The cruise was pleasant, with light to moderate winds and a calm to moderately smooth sea surface; brief shower-driven gusts did not create any significant chop.
The waterways in Finland and Sweden are extremely well marked. The markers are spot on and with a well charted course the autopilot will safely navigate through the many islands and rocks in the archipelago. However, it is crucial to keep a close watch to avoid getting too close to the markers. This is especially difficult during a dark night with little moon, a bit of current through the islands and foggy conditions. We managed the night watches without incident and with just a few corrections, another tribute to the excellent navigation equipment on Anna.
David successfully secured a good berth for Anna at ÅSS Marina (📍 60°05′15″ N, 19°56′17″ E), where we landed on August 15 in the late afternoon after the 120 NM passage from Byxholmen.
The marina staff were exceptionally helpful, standing by as Anna approached the berth to assist with docking. We were fortunate to secure a prime spot directly in front of the marina’s restaurant, ÅSS Paviljongen, adding extra convenience and charm to our stay.
ÅSS Marina is a charming guest harbor on the west side of Mariehamn, beautifully situated beside the historic four-masted barque Pommern and the Åland Maritime Museum. It offers everything visitors need for a comfortable stay, from excellent facilities and friendly service to waterfront dining at the ÅSS Paviljongen, where guests can enjoy good food with stunning sea views, or savor archipelago-inspired pizza at Pub Albin.
The marina is lively yet relaxed, with piers bustling with activity, children learning to sail, and white sails occasionally gliding across the water. Its prime location makes Mariehamn’s cozy town center — lined with cafés, boutiques, and leafy avenues — just a short stroll away.
The Pommernis a must-see, a beautifully preserved four-masted steel barque and one of Åland’s most iconic landmarks. Built in 1903 in Glasgow, she once sailed the grain routes between Europe and Australia via Cape Horn. Now moored beside the Åland Maritime Museum in Mariehamn, Pommern serves as a museum ship, offering a vivid glimpse into the golden age of windjammers and standing as a proud symbol of Åland’s rich maritime heritage.
Åland is an autonomous and demilitarised region of Finland, granted autonomy by the League of Nations in 1920. It is Finland’s smallest region by both area (1,580 km²) and population (about 30,600). The official language is Swedish, and the capital is Mariehamn.
Located at the entrance to the Gulf of Bothnia in the Baltic Sea, Åland consists of Fasta Åland, where most residents live, and roughly 6,500 surrounding islands and skerries, of which 60–80 are inhabited. It lies about 38 km from Sweden’s coast and is connected by ferry to both Turku and Stockholm..
Åland’s self-governing powers allow it to manage most local affairs independently from Finland’s central government. Its demilitarised and neutral status has been in place since the Paris Peace Treaty following the Åland War in the 1850s.
We thoroughly enjoyed our time in Mariehamn, captivated by the island’s calm beauty and unique character. Åland felt like a place suspended between sea and sky, serene, graceful and quietly enchanting.
We spent 3 wonderful days in Åland exploring the island by foot and bicycle. The heritage walk in Mariehamn takes you past a few of the stunningly architected buildings that are typical of the area. Venturing further afield you can see deer and enjoy the views across the archipelago from higher vantage points. We got a chance to re-provision from the well stocked supermarkets and even had a chance to catch a glimpse of a local singing talent scouting festival.
That evening, after a lovely dinner at ÅSS Paviljongen, we did a final check of Anna, making sure everything was ready for departure. It was our last night in Åland, October 18 and though we felt content and grateful for the serenity of island life, a spark of anticipation stirred among us. Beyond the horizon awaited Stockholm, vibrant, dynamic, and full of promise. The thought of cruising toward the Swedish capital filled us with excitement, a perfect balance between the peace we were leaving behind and the adventure ahead.
