We spent the last two days of August in Nåttarö. The season was clearly over. Although there were still some weekend arrivals by ferry to the island, the marina and island were quiet and peaceful. We were lucky to catch the final weekend service of the excellent restaurant that is on the island, we must have been the last guests before they closed everything up and left, only to come back for the next season next year.
Nåttarö is on the Stockholm archipelago trail, a 270 km hiking trail through the island group. Following the round we discovered the beauty of its rocky shores, lovely bays and beautiful beaches. There is also a famous cave “The Queen’s Cave” located on the island where according to history Queen Maria Eleonara from the German principality of Brandenburg apparently stayed in the cave during her flight after a lost battle in 1640. The island is truly stunning and we will let a few pictures speak for themselves.
The passage from Nåttarö Island to Växholm on September 1, 2025, offered one of those quintessential late-summer cruising days in the Stockholm archipelago, calm, mild, and stunningly scenic.
The morning began at Nåttarö Nya Gästhamn Marina under light winds from the southwest (5–8 knots) and partly cloudy skies, with the temperature around 18–20°C. The sea state was calm to slightly rippled, with gentle wavelets across the open stretches south of Ornö and Dalarö. As Anna moved northward through the intricate channels and narrow waterways of the inner archipelago, the sea flattened further. Some of these channels were only a few meters wider than Anna and we held our breath on several occasions navigating through the archipelago. The scenery grew more enchanting with every mile, wooded shores, clusters of red-and-white cottages, and the glimmer of sunlight dancing on the water. Passing through these idyllic channels felt almost like river cruising, with calm, reflective surfaces and the faint scent of pine drifting from the islands.
The attentive reader will have noticed that we are now backtracking, we had passed Växholm on our way into Stockholm. We did not get a chance to stop here and since we were planning to meet some of David’s friends at Saltsjöbaden just a few miles south the decision was made to add a stop in what is considered one of the best marinas in the archipelago.
By the time Anna approached Växholm Gästhamn Marina (📍 59°24.6′ N, 18°21.8′ E) in the early afternoon, the weather held steady, light breeze, smooth water, and mild sunshine, making for an easy and picturesque arrival.
Växholm Gästhamn Marina sits right in the heart of Växholm, the “Gateway to the Stockholm Archipelago.” Perfectly positioned along the bustling waterfront, it offers visiting sailors not only excellent facilities but also a taste of small-town charm surrounded by breathtaking coastal scenery.
The marina is well-sheltered and modern, with electricity, fresh water, Wi-Fi, showers, toilets, laundry, and a fuel dock available for guests. More importantly there is a Systembolaget within walking distance. There’s also a harbor café and restaurant terrace overlooking the water, the perfect place to relax with a coffee or meal while watching ferries and sailboats pass through the channel.
Just steps away lies Växholm’s lively town center, filled with boutiques, ice cream shops, and cozy waterfront restaurants. And a Systembolaget in case I forgot to mention it. The atmosphere is vibrant yet relaxed, with the sound of gulls and the scent of sea air ever-present. Across the harbor, the historic Växholm Fortress (Växholm Kastell) stands proudly on its own small island, a reminder of the town’s centuries-old maritime importance.
Further afield there is much to explore, although Växholm is an island it is connected through bridges across a number of islands all the way through to Stockholm. Also connected by bridge is the Bogesundslandet peninsula, home of the Bogesunds castle, an imposing landmark built in the 1640s. It happened to be open (accidentally) so we got a chance to check it out inside before being kindly ejected by the film crew that had left the door open.
Another historic landmark is the Gulf marine fuel station. It was first opened in 1922 and is the oldest Swedish fuel station and second oldest still operating Gulf fuel station in the world.
From a cruising perspective, Växholm Gästhamn is one of the most convenient marinas in the Stockholm archipelago, offering easy access, great services, a Systembolaget and a quintessential Swedish coastal vibe, the perfect stop before exploring further into Stockholm or the outer islands.
Växholm – Saltsjöbaden, Sweden
Short hops through the archipelago and Lake Mälaren are simply wonderful, each leg revealing new scenery, calm waters, and charming harbors.
On September 3, after topping up 2,000 liters of fuel at Växholm Gasthamn, we departed at 11:45 am for a relaxed cruise toward Saltsjöbaden. The weather was kind, mild winds, gentle ripples on the water, and clear skies filtering through patches of sun. The short passage was smooth and scenic, weaving past pine-fringed islands and elegant summer cottages that dotted the shoreline.
We arrived at KSSS Gästhamn Saltsjöbaden Marina by 2:00 p.m., greeted by calm waters and an elegant waterfront framed by stately villas and tall pines. The marina emanated quiet sophistication, the kind of place where time seems to move a little slower, and everything feels perfectly in balance.
KSSS Gästhamn Saltsjöbaden Marina (📍 59° 16.6′ N, 18° 18.9′ E) is one of the most picturesque and prestigious marinas along the Stockholm archipelago, the proud home of the Royal Swedish Yacht Club (Kungliga Svenska Segel Sällskapet, KSSS). Nestled in the sheltered waters of Saltsjöbaden, about 20 km southeast of central Stockholm, the marina combines elegance, serenity, and a rich maritime heritage.
The marina itself is beautifully designed, orderly docks lined with graceful sailboats and classic yachts, all set against a backdrop of forested hills, rocky outcrops, and grand waterfront villas. The surrounding landscape is quintessentially Swedish: tall pines and birches framing the shoreline, red and ochre boathouses dotting the coves, and calm, mirror-like waters reflecting the changing hues of the sky.
The atmosphere is tranquil yet vibrant, especially during summer when local sailors and visiting cruisers mingle along the piers or enjoy coffee at the nearby yacht club terrace. From the docks, there are sweeping panoramic views of Baggensfjärden Bay, where you can watch sleek yachts glide silently past and the occasional ferry cross toward the outer archipelago.
A short walk from the marina leads to Saltsjöbaden’s charming village, known for its historic Grand Hotel, beautiful walking paths, and elegant old villas built during Sweden’s golden era of seaside living. The area feels timeless, a perfect blend of nature, nautical life, and understated sophistication.
Whether you’re arriving after a day’s cruise or lingering for a few days, KSSS Gästhamn offers a rare sense of calm and refinement, a haven where you can rest, refuel, and soak in the beauty of Sweden’s coastal living at its best.
That evening, we were warmly welcomed into the home of David’s friends, Jolande and Ulrich, two gracious locals whose hospitality made us feel instantly at home. Their house overlooked the water, with soft evening light streaming through the windows and the scent of freshly prepared dinner filling the air. Over glasses of wine and a spread of home-cooked Swedish and continental dishes, conversation flowed easily, stories of sailing, travel, and life around the Stockholm archipelago.
Jolande and Ulrich shared insights into local life in Saltsjöbaden, the traditions of the Swedish sailing community, and their love for the peaceful rhythm of archipelago living. It was one of those memorable nights that seemed to wrap up the day beautifully, a mix of fine food, warm company, and the lingering charm of a Swedish summer evening by the water.
Saltsjöbaden – Rånö, Sweden
Martin and Ivy were up early that morning, eager to stretch their legs and squeeze in one last little adventure before setting off. They headed out to find an intriguing Geocache hidden nearby, a fun ritual that had become part of their cruising routine. On their way back, they made a quick stop at one of Saltsjöbaden’s best cafés, returning with a bag of still-warm, buttery croissants that filled the saloon with a heavenly aroma just as the morning sun rose over the marina.
The departure from KSSS Gästhamn Saltsjöbaden Marina at 9:45 am unfolded under calm, radiant late-summer skies. A soft breeze carried the scent of pine and salt, while wisps of white clouds drifted lazily above the still waters of the Stockholm archipelago. Visibility stretched endlessly across the horizon, and a gentle northeasterly wind of 6–8 knots brushed the surface, perfect for an easy, unhurried cruise.
As Anna glided past pine-clad islands and narrow channels, the sea stayed calm with barely a ripple, making navigation effortless. Here and there, clusters of traditional red Swedish cottages peeked through the trees, their reflections trembling on the glassy water. The air was cool and crisp, touched with that first whisper of autumn that hints the season is about to change.
Approaching Rånö from the north, the passage through the outer archipelago was serene and picturesque, lined with smooth granite shores and quiet, pine-covered islets. By the time Anna neared Rånö’s western side, the wind had eased and the water turned to silver, that magical stillness so typical of late Swedish summer afternoons.
The anchorage just north of Rånö Wärdshus offered excellent shelter from most wind directions except the northwest. Depths between five and eight meters provided good holding in sand and mud, and the anchor set firmly on the first try. There was ample swinging room, and even on weekends the bay remained peaceful, with only a few local boats tucked closer to shore.
Navigation into the anchorage was straightforward, though attention was needed to avoid the few isolated rocks marked on charts near the entrance. The approach from the north-northwest, following the well-buoyed fairway before turning gently eastward, proved simple and safe.
By early afternoon, Anna slipped into the anchorage at Rånö, where the waters mirrored the sky, calm, still, and beautifully sheltered by forested islets. At 1:45 pm, the anchor dropped softly into the clear water, marking the end of another tranquil day at sea. It was the perfect close to a passage that blended gentle cruising, small adventures, and the quiet joy of being surrounded by Sweden’s breathtaking natural beauty.