Stockholm – Kärsön, Sweden
All good things must come to an end. We had a wonderful time in Stockholm, but as planned, our journey would continue, cruising onward to explore the beautiful Lake Mälaren region. Anna had performed flawlessly throughout the past legs of our voyage, so we were eager to chart new waters ahead.
The morning of August 24, 2025, dawned calm and clear, a perfect day to continue our journey after a wonderful time in Stockholm. The air was mild, around 20 °C, with a soft breeze brushing across the harbor as Anna gently slipped her lines at Wasahamnen Marina. The water lay smooth and silvery, reflecting the quiet beauty of the city we were leaving behind.
It was a bittersweet departure, our next leg was without Mikel, who had left for Luxembourg that morning. Yet, as Anna glided past the islands of the inner archipelago, there was a sense of renewed calm and quiet focus. The sea was peaceful, almost mirror-like, disturbed only by the occasional ripple from passing ferries and small yachts.
A light southwesterly breeze carried the scent of pine from the surrounding islands, and the sun peeked through scattered clouds, bathing the decks in soft warmth. The engine purred steadily, and the navigation felt easy, a comfortable, five-hour cruise through sheltered waters.
Lake Mälaren, Sweden’s third-largest lake, is a freshwater body that is approximately one foot (0.3 meters) above the level of the brackish Baltic Sea. To allow maritime traffic between the lake and the sea while preventing saltwater intrusion, a system of locks and dams is used.
Anna traveled through the Hammarby Lock (Hammarby Slussen). It is located on the southern side of the island of Södermalm. The lock connects the lake system to the Baltic via the Hammarby waterway, a calm and picturesque canal that is fringed with residential homes on both sides, often with boathouses below. We also spotted the occasional sauna where people jumped straight into the clear but cold water of the canal.
Going through the lock is rather simple and by now we had sufficient routine – put out the fenders on both sides, slowly drive up behind the boat in front then have the crew hold on to the lines that are dangling from the above pathway. One everyone is in the lock, the door closes and Anna is lifted up to lake level. The crew pushes off the side and off we go – simple.
As we neared Kärsön Island in mid afternoon, the scenery grew even more tranquil, dense green forests reflected in still water, the world hushed except for the gentle lapping against Anna’s hull. It was the kind of day that reminded us why we love this life: smooth seas, great companionship, and the promise of new discoveries ahead.
By mid afternoon, we found a beautiful, sheltered spot to drop anchor, a serene pocket of water not far from the elegant Drottningholm Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of Sweden’s most iconic landmarks. The setting was simply breathtaking: calm waters reflecting the soft blue sky, framed by lush greenery and the distant silhouette of the palace. Anna rested gently at anchor, surrounded by the quiet rhythm of nature. It felt peaceful and deeply grounding, the perfect reward after a smooth day’s sail. As usual, Martin and Ivy could not resist squeezing in a bit more exploration before leaving the beautiful palace grounds, so they set off for a dinghy spin and some geocaching fun.
Kärsön – Askholmen, Sweden
On August 26, we began the morning by lifting anchor. The day was calm and bright, with light winds from the southwest and air temperatures around 18 °C, ideal for a comfortable cruise across Lake Mälaren. As we prepared to leave, a small hiccup occurred: the painter from our dinghy had wrapped around the propeller. David and Martin jumped into the cold water and got the painter untangled from the propeller with a few dives. Thankfully, the lake was still and the weather kind, allowing us to manage the situation calmly and the painter had not done any damage to the propeller. Once everything was cleared, Anna set off smoothly, gliding through the tranquil lake waters under a soft morning sun.
The cruise toward Askholmen Island was serene, with gentle ripples on the water and clear visibility throughout. Forested islets drifted past like watercolor scenes, and the steady hum of the engine carried across the lake. By late afternoon, we reached Askholmen and anchored in a peaceful cove, a fitting end to a beautiful, easy day on the water.
Askholmen Marina (📍59° 23.60′ N, 17° 06.47′ E) is a small, non-profit haven run by a few passionate locals and supported through community donations. Simple, yet full of charm, it offered everything a sailor could wish for, calm surroundings, warm hospitality, and we had the rare delight of two peaceful evenings spent in a traditional wood-fired sauna by the water.
We were most impressed by the locals’ resilience, many would step straight from the sauna into the lake without hesitation, braving waters of about 16–18 °C. Martin and David joined in with enthusiasm, plunging in without a second thought, while Ivy hesitated at first. After some encouragement, she finally took the plunge, a quick dip and back up in less than 30 seconds, what a joy !!
The next morning began with a surprise: our dinghy had gone missing without us noticing. Thankfully, the friendly Askholmen Marina team spotted it adrift and kindly brought it back. It was a light-hearted reminder of how watchful and kind the local boating community can be.
… phew, we’ve got the dinghy back !!
Askholmen – Gunviksviken, Sweden
Our cruise on August 28, 2025, from Askholmen Island to Gunviksviken unfolded under the mild, late-summer calm typical of Lake Mälaren.
The day began with light winds around 6–10 knots from the southwest, just enough to ripple the surface and carry a gentle breeze across the deck. The morning sky was partly cloudy, with streaks of sunshine glinting off the water as you lifted anchor around 10:00 am. The air temperature hovered around 20 °C, pleasantly warm and comfortable for a relaxed day’s cruising.
The lake surface remained smooth to slightly ruffled, ideal for easy motoring and maneuvering through the scenic waterways dotted with forested islands and summer cottages. Visibility was excellent, giving clear views of the passing shoreline and tranquil anchorages along the route.
We made a short stop at Strängnäs, a vital beer top-up stop! Having run completely out of beer, it was nothing short of a maritime emergency. Ivy and Martin jumped into the dinghy for a quick provisioning run while David put the autopilot on figure eight circles. Thankfully, Systembolaget and ICA Supermarket were only a short walk from the Dinghy dock, allowing for a quick but essential beer and grocery run before continuing our journey towards Gunviksviken, our anchorage for the night.
By the time we resumed our journey, the afternoon sun broke through, and the light wind made for an easy final leg to our bay near Herresta, where we dropped anchor around 2:30 pm in a very sheltered basin joining a couple of other boats that had chosen this lovely spot for the night. Gunviksviken is recognized as a great fishing spot. Unfortunately no fishing luck for us, since we entered the Baltic we had dragged our lures through salt and fresh waters without any success.
Gunviksviken – Nåttarö, Sweden
The passage from Gunviksviken to Nåttarö Island on August 29, 2025, offered a mix of calm inland waters and livelier open-sea conditions as Anna made her way southward.
The morning departure from Gunviksviken began under mild, partly cloudy skies with light winds from the southwest, a comfortable start as we motored through the final stretches of Lake Mälaren. The water was calm, almost glassy at times, and the air pleasantly cool, around 18–20 °C. Navigation was smooth, and spirits were high as we made our way toward the lock that could flush us back into the Stockholm archipelago.
Unfortunately we had a bit of a delay at the Slussbron Lock, where we waited more than an hour for the lock gates to open. The area is a big construction zone at the moment, a brand new lock is being built and therefore delays are inevitable.
… Slussbron Lock
By the time we exited toward the open waters south of Jäfklotta Island, the conditions gradually changed. Winds picked up to around 15–18 knots, with a noticeable shift in the sea state, moderate chop forming as the breeze funneled across the exposed stretches. Swells of 1–1.5 m built up from the southwest, giving the boat a few lively rolls. Nothing dramatic, but enough to remind us that we had left the calm shelter of the lakes behind.
Despite the rougher patches, Anna handled the seas confidently, and the crew settled into a steady rhythm. As evening approached, the wind eased slightly, and the sky turned a soft golden hue over the Baltic horizon. We arrived at Nåttarö Nya Gästhamn Marina around 8:15 pm, grateful for a safe passage and ready for a quiet night after a long, eventful day on the water.
Nåttarö Nya Gästhamn Marina ( (📍58° 49.4′ N, 18° 06.8′ E) is a peaceful and welcoming harbor located on Nåttarö Island, one of the southernmost islands in the Stockholm archipelago. It’s a favorite stop among cruising sailors exploring the route toward Gotland or the open Baltic.
The marina sits in a sheltered natural bay, offering good protection from most wind directions and a relaxed, laid-back atmosphere. Facilities are simple but well maintained, electricity, water, toilets, showers, and a small café/restaurant are available during the summer season. A fuel dock and waste disposal are also nearby, making it convenient for longer cruising routes.
Surrounding the marina, Nåttarö is known for its beautiful sandy beaches, pine forests, and walking trails. The island’s most famous beach, Stora Sand, is just a short stroll away and often called one of the finest natural beaches in the Stockholm archipelago. There’s also a small hostel and sauna, and during summer, visitors can rent bicycles or kayaks to explore the island further.
Tranquil, scenic, and steeped in the charm of Swedish summer life, Nåttarö Nya Gästhamn is the perfect place to unwind after a long sail, a gentle blend of nature, simplicity, and maritime serenity.
