10 June 2024
| Metric | Details |
| Departure Time | 0635 |
| Expected Wind (max) | 25kn |
| Expected Wave (max) | 1.5m |
| Engine Hours | 4157 |
| Generator Hours | 1720 |
Flybridge on overnight cruise to Forte dei Marmi
We initially planned to cross the Gulf of Lion and stop in Saint-Tropez. However, as we made our way across, we decided to continue up the French coast and onto the Italian coast, aiming for a direct route to Porto Viareggio. Our plan was to dock there for four days while David and Mikel visited their friends, David and Katheryn Birnbaum, who have a house in Forte dei Marmi. Mikel planned to fly to Pisa and joined David in Forte dei Marmi for the long weekend.
As we approached Italy, we decided to cross overnight and arrive in the morning, ensuring we could get a good sleep once at the marina. We arrived around 06:30 and anchored about 2 nautical miles from shore until the marina opened at 08:00. When we dropped anchor and I put Anna in reverse, the engine died. We tried from other control stations with the same result. It turned out to be an electrical problem that resolved itself after 15 minutes. We haven’t had the issue since, but it was a bit worrying!
The weather from Cala Jóncols to Forte dei Marmi was fairly smooth, though we faced a current and 15-knot port beam winds most of the way. Anna performed well, with the oil pressure and coolant temperature remaining steady. With no moon out, we enjoyed a clear view of the Milky Way and phosphorescent critters illuminated by the boat’s wake.
While visiting our friends, we decided to take a cruise north to Lerici and Tellaro.
Lerici is a picturesque town located on the Ligurian coast of Italy. It has a rich history dating back to the Etruscans and later became an important Roman port. The town is dominated by a medieval castle, Castello di Lerici, which was built in the 12th century and now houses a paleontology museum. Lerici is part of the Gulf of Poets, named after the many writers and poets, including Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron, who were inspired by the area’s stunning landscapes. The town’s charming narrow streets, vibrant piazzas, and beautiful seafront make it a delightful place to explore.
Tellaro is a small, enchanting village perched on a cliff overlooking the Gulf of La Spezia. It is often considered one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. Tellaro has managed to preserve its traditional character and charm, with colorful houses, cobbled streets, and a serene harbor. According to local legend, the village was saved from a Saracen pirate attack in the 17th century by a giant octopus that climbed the church tower and rang the bells, alerting the villagers. Today, Tellaro is a peaceful retreat known for its breathtaking views, crystal-clear waters, and a tranquil atmosphere that attracts artists and writers seeking inspiration.
Our friend David was particularly interested in dining at Locanda Il Senatore, a renowned restaurant in Tellaro. This charming eatery is famous for its exquisite seafood dishes and its stunning location overlooking the sea. Unfortunately, it was closed during our visit, so we couldn’t experience its culinary delights. Locanda Il Senatore is highly regarded for its fresh, locally-sourced ingredients and traditional Ligurian recipes, making it a must-visit for food enthusiasts.
After enjoying the beauty and history of Lerici and Tellaro, we made our way back to Porto Viareggio. Tomorrow, David and Brian will depart mid-morning to Elba, the first leg of their voyage to Dubrovnik. Mikel and Rachel, Brian’s wife, will join us for five days of cruising the Croatian Islands. They plan to leave from Zadar on the 24th or 25th.